And so, it was farewell to the four-legged
surefooted
elephants at the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant camp, and back to the
nimble
two-wheeled possibility of my BMW 650.
Not that we
went very far before dismounting … about 500
metres to be exact.
You see the Hall
of Opium Museum is directly opposite the
Anantara’s entrance. It sits on a 40-hectare tract of landscaped land,
with an
impressive modern building housing the museum. (It was established by
the Mae
Fah Luang Foundation, under Royal Patronage.)
Intriguingly you
enter in one side of the building and exit
via another. The starting point is a long uphill ‘tunnel’ with
disconcerting
bas relief mural images of suffering opium users. It’s as though
Picasso’s
war-time masterpiece La Guernica and that other bloke’s The Scream have
fused
into one 3-D walk-through work of art. Jing jing!
Then you enter a
series of very modern and airy chambers
dedicated to different aspects of opium. Its international history (and a
big
hello to you Doctors Jardine and Matheson), its local popularity, its
booming
prosperity, the tools of the trade, the smuggling rackets, the pushers
and the
users. All wonderfully and colourfully curated. Posters, animations,
videos,
3-D recreations.
There’s a net
feeling of sadness: what a wasteful (not to
mentioned wasted) outcome opium produced. Of shattered lives and dreams.
The
needle and the damage done.
A powerful and
potent portrayal. Do not miss out on
this.It's a real trip, man.
(Footnote: don’t
be fooled by a lesser imitation in the
touristy part of town billing itself as the Opium Museum. Visit the real
one.)
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