Showing posts with label centara grand mirage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label centara grand mirage. Show all posts

Monday, 1 March 2010

Pattaya -- LOST WORLD FOUND!

I've always hankered after going to the Lost City in South Africa. But now I feel the need is not so urgent because I've just discovered the Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort in Pattaya, this country's 'first themed beach resort' where Thailand meets Timbuktu.

Think massive stone elephants, soaring safari lodge-like roof structures seemingly held up by large tusks, skybridges linking hotel rooms, flaming torches, and a Lazy River meandering through a tropical jungle of palm trees. All right on Wong Amat Beach, Pattaya, just a couple of hours from Bangkok. Gee, you could've fooled me: this feels like a whole other world.

This cross-continental contemporary theme is carried through into the breezy rooms as well. Alas, no vines for a little 'Me Tarzan-You Jane' scenario.


A special moment was in watching the sunset from the Vistas deck (nice long cranberry/vodka cocktail in hand, of course) and, as the fiery orb sank into the sea, a dozen torches erupted into flame accompanied by a strident classical tune. Magic! Bravo! They really made sunset the event it should be.

Russians seem to make up about 75% of the clientele judging by a/ the accents b/ the sheer amount of long-legged blondes called Anushka parading around the place with barely-there bikinis and aforementioned accents and c/ Adrian Brown, the hotel's Aussie manager, told me so. Also a healthy amount of Thai families weekending from Bangkok, and the odd Thai superstar (the weekend I stayed, tennis player Paradorn Srichaphan and his wife, a former Miss Universe. Yes, I politely signed autographs for them.)


Daytime decisions revolve around the Lazy River, a bunch of slides (some of them fun for 47-year-olds as much as 7-year-olds!), a choice of sea sports at the 230-metre wide beachfront, or wallowing in the infinity pool. Tempting too was the absolute state-of-the-art fitness centre -- rarely have I seen so much of the latest and best gear in any gym in the world as here. However, in a fiercely contested debate which raged for nano-seconds inside my head, that didn't get a run in favour of another lazy lap of the river.

Having built up such a king-sized hunger on the Lazy River, I replenished my lost calories -- and then some! -- at two of their restaurants. The first was Oasis, where Friday and Saturday nights offer a seafood buffet. Talking about a feeding frenzy! I single-handedly depleted the North Sea's entire 2010 seasonal harvest of salmon and tuna. My Omega 3 levels are currently outperforming the Dow Jones index. Then the oyster cart came round again. Aw shucks, yes I'll have another dozen of those. My cholesterol level is now outperforming the Southeast Asian (exluding Japan) market index.

Speaking of which, the following night we dined at Ginger & Lime, which offers the cuisines from Thailand, China, Japan, and Vietnam. Executive chef Andrew Brown (who overseas a team of 135 chefs and stewards at the hotel) pointed out all the good stuff. Ooooh, teppanyaki'd salmon. Barbecued king prawns. It was all good. Mmmmmm. The resulting protein coma was apparently only tenuously connected to the New Zealand sauvignon blanc promotion.

And, of course, there's only one medically acknowledged way to recover from a protein coma the next day. That's right -- more languid laps of the Lazy River, repeated as necessary. Africa can wait. Jing jing!

Pattaya -- SUMMERTIME, AND THE LIVING IS SLEAZY ...

Ok, let's just put it on the table straight: Pattaya is Soddom and Gomorrah by the Sea.

Thailand's sin city has carried this reputation ever since that fateful day in April 1961 when the first 100 war-weary Americans arrived for some well-deserved R&R at this stunning and sprawling bay. That invoked a rapid-fire change from sleepy fishing village to fishy sleeping village. To this day, the US Navy uses Pattaya as a R&R port, the arrival of aircraft carriers marked by fleets of girls swimming out to the horizon to meet the boats. Jing jing!

Little known fact #628: the name Phatthaya actually means the wind which blows from southwest to northwest at the beginning of rainy season. That in turn comes from Phraya Tak (not to be confused with Friar Tuck) who captured Pattaya in 1767.



Walking Street -- at the north end of the bay -- is a looooooong stretch of nothing but clubs, bars, pubs, restaurants. Notably, a lot of rowdy Russian-run establishments. It is called Walking Street because to call it $#&ing Street would be just too sleazy ... even for Pattaya. It has made local neon sign makers some of the wealthiest people in Thailand. Walking Street is a daily carnival of decadence and debauchery (I mean that in a good way) where lady boys and bar girls hustle the passers by, and shameless spruikers for strip clubs hold up 'menus' that would make medical students blush, and even make a seasoned gynecologist raise an, er, eyebrow.

But there is something in the human spirit that makes this compulsive viewing. Like a reality TV show. It is real - duh! Which is now why busloads of otherwise innocent tourists are drawn to the place to have a walk and a wander (or perhaps that should be 'wonder'). And with that it just becomes a commodity. Like Patpong. Like the Reeperbahn. A tourist attraction.

There has been a lot of talk lately about the gentrification of Pattaya. If that's the case I'd hate to have seen it before (no, actually I would've LOVED to have seen it before, who am I kidding?)

However ...

Pattaya is a schizophrenic city. The southern end, and generally the area of Jomtien, is where the big new investment is going into, capitalising on the the 5 million-odd tourists (some of them very odd!) who venture the 145 km 2-hour drive (or flight) from Bangkok to Pattaya each year. Pleasant promenades, beautiful beaches, tasteful family-friendly resorts. Gee, there are places I'd be more than happy to bring my mother to. A flash new Central Mall has just opened, replete with Japanese restaurants, electronics stores, usual middle-class mall fare. Then there are the new wave of hotels: the Hard Rock Hotel, the Dusit Thani D2, the amazing Centara Grand Mirage is now open (see next blog about this), and the Hilton Pattaya is slated to open any day now. Not to mention Ocean One Tower, which, at 367 metres is slated to be the tallest residental tower in Thailand, if not the world. Setting a new tone, a high water mark.

Amazingly in my 23 years of travelling to Thailand I'd never set foot in Pattaya. So I arrived with a trolley-load of mental preconceptions and baggage about Pattaya; mostly beaten-up Samsonite suitcases and backpacks admittedly. I left with new baggage, mostly fake Louis Vuitton -- oh, and some vivid mental snapshots from that show in the upstairs bar. How does she do that???