Update on Sukhumhvit Soi 11, Sukhumvit Bangkok Thailand

Faithful readers of this Amazing Thailand travel blog – I know there’s one out there somewhere! – will know that one of my favourite sois (side street) in Bangkok is Sukhumvit Soi 11 which I blogged about a little while ago.

I just revisited the area, while staying at Le Fenix boutique hotel, and there’s a few places you really should know about …

The first is Bawarchi Restaurant, which is an Indian place about 100m on the right into the soi from the Sukhumvit Road Asok BTS station end. Neither the service nor surroundings are particularly flash but it’s all about the food. You know I always bang on about the Indian food in Bangkok in places such as Himali Cha Cha and Rang Mahal, well this is almost up there … but without the character, charm and ambience the others offer as part of the experience.

But if you want a damn good paneer, or chicken ticcas in gravy served to the accompaniment of lively and sultry Bollywood videos, this is the place, jing jing. Dinner for 2, with no alcohol, was 888 baht. (I know what you’re thinking – no alchohol, why not???) That's not even $30 to you for a great restaurant meal out.

If you’ve overdone the Thai curries and the Indian curries, your innards are threatening mutiny, and you just want something your poorly travelled stomach might recognize as real food, then just keep going on up the soi for a couple of hundreds metres or so till you find the Aussie Pub. Burgers and beers done just right, with football (any shape of ball you can think of) on the big screen.

That should keep you going. And then there’s still so much more to move on to in Soi 11 any time of day and night …

Read my previous Soi 11 blog here for some of the other nocturnal attractions of one of Bkk's hottest (or is that coolest?) streets.

Bangkok - Sukhumvit Soi 31: a cultural enclave

In the continuing series of some of my favourite Bangkok sois (streets), today we visit Sukhumvit soi 31.

For a start, you can't miss it: just look for the huge red,  blue and green  poles that soar skyward -- some people see these as robots, others as installation art, and others see them just as huge red, blue and green poles, but the reality is that they are birds' legs. Jing jing!

You see they are part of a massive sculpture which envelopes the stylish new S31 Hotel, ending up with its body higher up the building and its head right at the top. Yes, a little abstract I agree, but that's the signature of the architect (just look at The Nation building).

Walking in about 50 metres or so, the fun starts ...

Cafe des Arts on the left is a perennial favourite. Its bright yellow sign attracts patrons like moths to a flame for its moderate priced meals. A little further on is Bella Napoli, a popular Italian eatery.

On your right, tucked behind a wall is the Himali Cha Cha restaurant, one of the oldest Indian restaurants in Bangkok, which was started by a gent who was the cook for some ambassador or another. 'They started out at a place which is now the car park for the Emporium,' laughs Khuned, a Thai of Indian Heritage who grew up in this area.

Himali Cha Cha is housed in a beautiful old wooden home, giving it a very cosy feel. Many consider it the finest Indian food in Bangkok (they also have two other branches now). 'This whole area used to be just little houses like this,' reminisces Khuned. 'This was like my playground. And I remember walking to and from school through here,' he points down the soi. 'So funny, I remember some of the American school kids would hope into a tuk tuk and tell the driver, Hey let me drive. They'd be popping wheelies and everything!'

Further along, the tone is decidedly upmarket with the Attic art gallery beside the Loft wine bar/ wine shop. It's run by Scottish lass Elsie Evans who's lived in Asia 20 years. A delightful combination, as you can attend art classes or an exhibition there, and slip down for some inspiration at the wine bar! Along with two other galleries, La Lanta and Koi, soi 31 has become something of a happening cultural enclave.

And a little bit further down, is the house of the current Thai PM, Abhisit.

So, all in all, an interesting street with lots of upmarket fun and diversity. Yes, tuk tuks still ply the soi and it's tempting to stop one and ask if we can pop a wheelie for old times sake.But times have changed, the street has grown up, and Khuned -- who's also grown up -- now drives a four wheel drive. But in any case, all of this is a fairly short walk from Phrom Pong BTS station.