Chiang Rai - Lisu hilltribe festival

Colour. You have never seen anything like this in your life. Reds and blues and purples and oranges and greens. A spectral riot, a jubilee. Dazzling in the hazy highland sun.

We are in Doi Laan (doi being the northern Thai word for mountain) to attend an annual cultural festival of the Lisu hilltribespeople, at the invitation of my Lisu friend, 'Mimi from the Mountains' as she calls herself. The Lisu originated somewhere near Tibet and are mostly domiciled in Yunnan, although a few have filtered down to Burma and Thailand over the centuries.

'This festival is a good chance for the whole Lisu in Thailand to meet, a once-yearly meeting point; they chose this month because of the school holiday so all the students can join the festival,' the charming university worker tells me. Somewhere between 500 and 750 (plus about five farang guests including us) have descended on this spartan village amid dramatic mountains, valleys and lakes about an hour southwest of Chiang Rai city. Every spare bit of floor of Doi Laan's homes, shacks and mud huts is occupied by guests. You can tell the ones who've come back from the 'big smoke' of Chiang Mai -- they're the ones sporting dyed Korean-style hair-dos and cellphones.

Lisu women don’t hold back when it comes to dressing up. (My Chiang Mai Tour)

The centrepiece of imparting Lisu history is song, and dancing can go all night for three or so nights. But this is no Full Moon Rave. To the untrained eye (mine) it looks like Ring-a-ring-a-Rosie. 'It is the way to respect the holy tree,' explains Mimi over the rather discordant rasp of the full bamboo flutes.

But before you go wading into the mosh-pit with abandon, it pays to know the strict rules of the game. 'Any man can hold the woman's hand unless she is the man's relative or cousin or the same last name. It is forbidden to hold the relative's hand, it is taboo. If it is necessary then women or men must have something like a handkerchief to block the hand so that their hand will not directly touch each other.'

During the dance, only men can ask women to hold their hand or to join the dance. 'Except if that woman is a bit drunk or wanted to make a joke to some men,' laughs Mimi with her trademark glowing smile.

Indeed, corn whisky has a lot to answer for. It is served up in liberal lashings. It's not too dissimilar to the worst Scotch you've ever tasted, but with a burnt earthy aftertaste (OK, it'll be a while before I get a job in PR with the Lisu Corn Whisky Marketing Board.) Flushed cheeks radiate in the late afternoon sun. Mimi ushers us into her mum and dad's house (which doubles as the village clinic), where we sit on tiny wooden stools raised just inches above the dirt floor. The meal is stunning, a mixture of spicy vegetable and meat dishes, all courtesy of the jungle. 'We don't go to market for anything except sometimes meat,' declares Mimi proudly. Chickens tip-toe gingerly through the house. Pot-bellied pigs bask in the sunny pen outside. She is momentarily distracted by a call on her mobile phone.

The only other modern intrusion here seems to be Crocs shoes. I spy several fluorescent pairs competing for visual attention with the rest of the blinding outfits. Jing jing!

But no garment is richer than their hats called U-thue, garnished with a thousand or more red strings and beads. Imagine Liberace in a Foreign Legionnaire's cap and you get the idea. 'It is more like fashion now with all the colour;  in the past we use the knitting wool. The strings hanging down are to please the spirit; the spirit likes to see the colour. It is springtime for the Lisu so the spirit would love it and be happy to see spring as well.'

It is a real privilege to experience this cultural life from the inside as we have. But just one marketing suggestion if I may: add some snappy break beats to the raspy music and package this festival as a -- wait for it -- Fulu Moon Party.

FACT FILE 

The Legend Chiang Rai (supplied)

Stay: The Legend Chiang Rai Boutique River Resort & Spa Relaxed riverside resort

Getting there: AirAsia has 41 flights every week to Chiang Rai [more about AirAsia]

Find more activities and adventures in Chiang Rai at www.thailand.net.au

TOP FIVE ATTRACTIONS IN CHIANG RAI

- The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun): This iconic temple is a must-visit, famous for its unique blend of traditional Thai architecture and surreal, modern art. Its construction began in 1997, and it's still a work in progress 

Wat Rong Suea Ten (c) Roderick Eime 2022

- The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten): Another stunning temple, known for its vibrant blue hues and intricate details. The temple's design is a mix of traditional Thai and modern art, making it a fascinating visit 

- Wat Phra Kaew: This historic temple is home to a replica of the famous Emerald Buddha, which is now housed in Bangkok's Grand Palace. The temple's architecture and tranquil atmosphere make it a great place to explore 

- The Golden Triangle: This historic area marks the confluence of the Mekong River and the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar. It's a great spot to learn about the region's history and take in the stunning views 

- The Night Bazaar: For a taste of local culture and shopping, head to the Night Bazaar, which takes place every evening. You can find everything from souvenirs and clothing to street food and local handicrafts 

Sale! Sale! Sale!

Attention Fashionistas!

Bangkok is on sale: the major fashion stores in Siam Discovery, Siam Centre and The Emporium are getting rid of their end of season stocks with sales at up to 90% off designer stuff. Yes, ninety percent.  Jing jing!

Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Rip Curl, Max Mara, etc, etc, all has to go.

The stores are doing it in an innovative way, too ... the Emporium have converted their car park over the road into a massive air-conditioned space. A real sale atmosphere, with credit card machines going into meltdown. Sale on till 20th May.

The two Siam developments are holding their sale at Queen Sirikit Centre (near Asoke BTS), a little further out from their own centres which were very close to the disruptions downtown lately. So shoppers were a bit to venture too close to that part of town. Sale on till 16th May.

So the winner is YOU! Just don't expect to find anything in red. It's very out of fashion at the moment.

Footnote: I couldn't resist this photo of a shopping bag from a fashion store in Siam. Only in Thailand, eh?

TCDC Bangkok - Think you know Thailand? Think Again!

When I mention the name TCDC what do you think of? That's right, a double adapter, an each way bet, a lady-boy or katoey. So damn predictable, you lot!


TCDC has got nothing to do with AC/DC or anything of the sort. It is the Thailand Creative and Design Centre, based in The Emporium at Phrong Pohm in the heart of Sukhumvit, Bangkok.

The Centre opened about five years ago to serve as Thailand's 'premier learning resource centre for design and creativity'. OK, that part sounds pretty boring, but wait till you hear this: the centre holds 25,000 design magazines in its library, and stages regular exhibitions.

The permanent exhibition is really cool: 'What is Design?' displays Genius Loci, the best of 10 inventive countries around the world, starting with Louis Vuitton steamer trunks and homberg hats in the middle 1800s and on from there, showing how economics, politics, religion, etc, all inform a nation's sense of, and need for, design. Presented in a wonderful multi-coloured chronological timeline along the walls.

Visually, there's a huge old Citroen as a centrepiece. And so many items of fashion and gadgets like Philippe Starck's famous alien spider-like lemon juicer that does nothing but dribble juice onto your kitchen counter, a Vespa scooter, amazing minimalist Muji electronics, and, yes, even the Bic pen gets a run. It was revolutionary once, you know. Jing jing!

What's also on now? 'Baht and Brains' addresses the marriage of creativity and business. Did you know that Thailand is one of the top 20 exporters of creative goods in the world? It's not surprising when you see the home-grown fashion bursting from the windows of Siam Paragon, Siam Centre, and the Emporium. And what about the amazing design of Thailand's countless spas and boutique hotels?

Yes, there is a very funky heart to this culture, hence their drive toward a Creative Economy.

Want to see another side of Thailand? It's right here at TCDC in the heart of Bangkok's urban jungle.

Bangkok -- situation update

I flew into Bangkok last night (7 May) and was really pleased to see Sufannabum, Soovannapom, er, the international airport so busy. Actually I wasn't pleased -- it was so damn busy I had to queue five minutes to get a plate of pad thai noodles.

Anyway, it's a sign that things are back to normal in the City of Angels. (If the word 'normal' can ever be applied to Bangkok, that is.) Perhaps a lot of pent-up demand from business people and tourists that chose not to come here in the last few weeks.

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs has put the following status update information together exclusively for you, the dear readers of Thailand JING JING. Jing Jing!

"In terms of inconveniences and disruptions to the general public, anti-government protests in Thailand are now largely confined to only certain locations in Bangkok, namely, around the Ratchaprasong Intersection. In particular, popular tourist destinations in most parts of the country remain unaffected, and the country’s transportation systems, including the two Bangkok airports (Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang), are operating as normal.


"For foreigners living in or visiting the Kingdom, it is important to note that foreigners have never been targeted in political conflicts in Thailand. 

"Information regarding the overall political situation in Thailand is available on the Ministry of Foreign Affair’s website at . In addition, the Tourism Authority of Thailand has a 24-hour hotline at 1672 and general information for tourists is updated on its websites at http://www.tatnews.org and http://www.tourismthailand.org, while the Thai Tourist Police is ready to answer enquiries and provide assistance to tourists. The 24-hour Tourist Police hotline is 1155."

So the point is, come back to Bangkok now. It's a great time to squeeze hotels, car rentals, etc, for great deals, and you can enjoy a bit more space for yourself on the beaches of Thailand and in the usual tourist haunts.

Just to clarify: the airport was busy with people coming IN, not leaving. And the pad thai was well worth the wait. Not to mention the mango sticky rice, and the mango, lychee and apple smoothie ...

Bangkok -- A Spectacular Siamese Show (no, not upstairs in Patpong)

Wow!

Ok, you might not think that a three-letter word can quite capture and do justice to a USD$40 million production, featuring 500 costumes and 150 actors (plus not a few pachyderms, goats and chickens) ... and you would be absolutely correct!

I am really struggling to describe this spectacular show -- listed in the Guinness Books of Records -- to you. The official slogan is 'A Journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Siam'. But that could equally describe a midnight stroll down Patpong Road.

And to say It's a Journey Back into History as they do on their website is way too bland, and conjures up images too generic and old and dusty. It doesn't compel you with the dramatic dioaramas of Khmer civilisation, the colour of the Lanna culture, and the clangour of the Chinese traders seeking their fortune. It says nothing of the Ramayana-like depictions of heaven and hell and the mystical Himpaan Forest, nor the joyous depictions of Thailand's many festivals such as Songkhran (think water) or Loy Krathong (think candles).

Instead, there are boats being paddled across the 65 metre stage, bands of sylph-like figures floating gracefully through the sky, and trumpeting elephants plodding across bucolic mountainscapes. Oh, and levity in the form of some audience participation at half time. (Tip: don't sit in the seat I was sitting in -- you'll soon find yourself up on stage making an arse of yourself with some kind of rigged bamboo rattle!)

As words fail me -- Yay! I hear you cheer -- I shall leave it to a couple of others to sum it up for you instead:

"Think Cirque de Soleil plus Italian grand opera and classical Thai dance dressed by Las Vegas costumers and staged by Hollywood," gushes Susan McKee of Jax Fax Travel Marketing magazine. Ok, Susan I'm trying to think of that. "World-class staging, heart-stopping colors and pulsating performances all to the beat of hummable music and energetic dancing. Siam Niramit is a must see!" raves Francine LeFrak, a Tony Award-Winning Broadway producer. Yes, I can see where she's coming from.

But I think H.E. Mr. Rodolphe Imhoof, Ambassador for Switzerland, says it best: "Une superbe soiree d'introduction a'la art et la civilisation Thaie. Merci de tout couer."

That's French for, um, "wow!"

Bangkok - Siam Niramit

Travel Advisor's Top 10's for 2010 has just been released, and no one will be surprised to hear that Bangkok makes it for nightlife.

But not for the type of nightlife you might be thinking of that's normally associated with Bangkok (Ok, lads down the back, you can put your ping pong bats away now ...)

Instead, it lists attractions like Siam Nirimit (an amazing cultural stage extravaganza, about which I'll blog tomorrow), Calypso Cabaret, and Sky Bar (about which I blogged a couple of months ago).

Fly Thai and Join the Smile High Club

On Saturday May 1, Thai Airways reenacted its historical first ever flight between Bangkok and Hong Kong, with the crew decked out in nostalgic mod/pop 60s style fashions, and the plane also bearing the original Thai Airways livery (featuring highly unoriginal blue and red stripes).

The original menu was also replicated with those in the pointy end of the plane enjoying Lobster Medallion Bellevue served with Russian Salad, Smoked Snapper Marinated with Mustard Sauce served with Thai herbs such as lime wedges, shallot, peanut, ginger, chili slices and spring onion, all together wrapped with betel leaves. And that was just for starters, literally. For the main course, first class passengers feasted on Lobster in Chu-Chee Sauce and Braised Cubed Beef Hong Kong Style.

It’s 50 years since that first flight in 1960, done in a plane borrowed from the Wright Brothers (actually a DC-6B). Boy, TG -- as it’s known in the trade -- has come a looooooooooooooong way since then, with 10,000 planes flying to 550 countries worldwide now, making Thailand the perfect travel hub for anyone travelling in just about any direction across the globe. Even if you're flying from Sydney to Melbourne, for instance, you should consider flying via Bangkok.

I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Thai’s pilot simulator training centre in Bangkok, where half a dozen sims of Airbuses, and all the other models in their modern fleet, stand like a miniature NASA laboratory. What a fun session and a great chance to try out the Airbus technology first hand. (The less said about my first landing attempt the better. Suffice to say we all walked away from it.)

Coincidentally my first ever flight on TG was Hong Kong to Bangkok.

I was travelling with a work colleague, an ‘Old Bangkok Hand’ who was going to show us youngsters the sights, sounds, smells, etc of Bangkok. We flew First Class (well, it was the Eighties, the age of excess) and us six passengers in the 1st class bubble upstairs on the 747 were – as I remember – outnumbered by the crew.

Boarding that plane was my first taste of Thailand. The graceful silk garments. The wai. The smiles. Being younger and better looking then, I was sure they were only smiling that special smile for me. None of the other passengers were surely enjoying the same smile I was receiving! I had unwittingly joined Thai Airways’ World Famous Smile High Club.

We floated on a cloud to and fro Bangkok. Smooth as silk indeed. And that experience planted a seed in my mind then that was only to come to fruition some years later when I finally did move to live in Thailand.

Out of thousands of airplane journeys I’ve done, covering over half a billion kilometers, that journey sticks in my mind as one of the most memorable and enjoyable ever. Nothing at all to do with the sixteen double vodka tonics. Jing jing!

Well here’s to you, TG. You’re an elegant lady still, and looking pretty good for 50. Especially those little laugh lines around your eyes.

Coming up in May ...

Dear Readers

Can you believe it's May already?

We've covered a LOT of ground already this year, and yet we've still got so much of Amazing Thailand to cover.

Coming up for your enjoyment in May:

Khao Suk (the Guilin of Thailand)
Diving in the Similan Islands
Watching and playing Elephant Polo in the Golden Triangle
How to become a fully qualified mahout
The wonderful gardens of Doi Tung

But we'll kick off with a little tribute to Thai Airways who turned 50 years old at the weekend. Check back tomorrow for that little story.