Lanna 101: new magazine about Northern Thailand (Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Pai, etc)

If you travel to Thailand or Bangkok, you will probably already know about Bangkok 101 magazine, which is the best-selling lifestyle, travel and 'what's on' type magazine about the great many goings on in that city.

Now comes Lanna 101: your definitive guide to northern Thailand.

It covers the region from Sukhothai north (one of the dramatic ancient capitals, roughly 350km northwards of Bangkok is considered northern Thailand).  So Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai (which turns 750 next year), Pai (Thai tourists' favourite winter retreat), Mae Hong Son (interesting border city), the intriguing The Golden Triangle (where Laos and Burma meet Thailand on the Mekong River),  Loei (near Isaan and the Mekong), and one of my personal favourite cities Nan (an up and coming Pai, full of coffee shops, hanging flower baskets, and a well-preserved Lanna culture).

So what is Lanna? Essentially it was the Kingdom of One Million Rice Fields which spread from what is now eastern Burma down through this region in the 12-18th centuries under the guidance of founder King Mengrai ... well, he wasn't around for all of those 500 years, of course, but you understand what I mean.

The first issue of the magazine is on sale at the news stands NOW, but you can also jump online at www.lanna101.com to see the best of travel, accommodation, arts, community, wellness, nightlife, etc, etc, etc.

It's bloody brilliant. I know, because I edited it, jing jing.

Northern Thailand - Nirvana on two wheels

Your humble scribe with friends at the Golden Triangle.

When it comes to motorcycling, the northern Thailand's Lanna region really is heaven – or nirvana – on two wheels. Surprisingly excellent roads (the drivers, well, that’s a separate issue), stunning mountain and valley vistas, cheap petrol with smiling pump-attendants, plentiful accommodation in the 300-1000 baht a night range, tasty food on every corner, and we haven’t even got to the best bit yet …

In what other country can you have a hard day in the saddle and then stop in just about any small town and get a great massage for your weary bum that’ll cost you around 150-200 baht per hour? That's $5 or $6 to you.

It doesn’t matter what two wheels you get around on frankly. 100cc Honda Ladyboys or 1800cc Harleys are all the same to me (although I choose to ride a BMW F650GS) … just a way of getting out there and seeing what too few other visitors to the region are seeing. Away from the well-worn tour bus circuit. Most rental shops (see box) cater well in the 200-650cc range, bikes that are big enough to deal with the vertiginous challenges of some of the mountainous terrain and give you a comfortable enough ride along the way.

On the road to Doi Ankhang.

Before you head off, two words: GT Rider (www.gt-rider.com). This website is an amazing resource where keen riders (many of them passionate motorcycling residents of the north) write up ride reports, recommend hotels and eateries to stay or avoid, and generally clue you in to what’s hot and what’s not in Lanna. 

GT Rider was set up by Aussie David Unkovich who lives in Chiang Mai and has covered possibly one million kilometers on these roads over the last 30 years. Jing jing!

He also publishes the best maps outlining classic trips such as the Mae Sa Valley / Samoeng loop, the Mae Hong Son loop, the Golden Triangle, and so on. (GT Rider maps are available from many bookstores in Lanna and on GPS too.)

You can string these together to make your own customized itinerary. And, of course, there’s all the bits in between that make it really interesting … it may be a quaint hill-tribe village a few kilometers off the track, it might be a great coffee spot lookout (like 7km south of Mae Hong Son, where the guy has the kettle boiling on the log fire!). Well, you get the idea.

Rice padi in the Kok River valley.

As for my personal favourites, there’s the 1148 which links Chiang Kham to Nan, an endless windy road, perfectly cambered with gorgeous valleys (keep your eye on the road, though). Chiang Mai to Pai’s 482 curves. Highway 12 from Phitsanulok west to Lom Sak with picture-postcard valley views, flower gardens and coffee shops aplenty. All the arrow-straight highways between Uttaradit and Sukhothai where you can really put your machine through its paces … 

Which brings us to speed limits. I did see a police car. Once. Somewhere near Lamphun. Entering a town, signs read: ‘City Limit – Reduce Speed.’ It doesn’t say down to what.Mostly it’s up to the rider to ride according to the conditions within his or her own ability. Sometimes a brilliant road will suddenly become a 10m stretch of gravel, with no warning sign (at least not in English).  And then,  there’s other things you will routinely encounter on roads along the way: Stray dogs. Chickens. Water buffalo. Elephants. 

But the biggest hazard is other motorists and, on a serious note, the fatality rates in Thailand are extremely high; unlicensed drivers and riders, drunk driving, buses overtaking cars which are overtaking trucks who are passing a scooter on a blind rise round a sharp mountain corner on a single-laned road.

Which is probably why many opt for off-road riding as a better alternative.

 One of the most endearing things – and this says a lot about amazing northern Thailand and its people – is the amount of times I’ve had my bike fixed for free. Several times I’ve pulled into a bike shop en route up-country to have, say, my chain tightened. They put it up on the blocks, a couple of guys spend 10 or 15 minutes tightening it, then wave you on your way; no charge. ‘No, no, I just help you,’ they say. I insist on tipping them 20 or 40 baht. Another time I had a new brake light put into my BMW. Parts and labour 30 baht. (This is NOT at the official dealership by the way!).

So what are you waiting for? Mount up and enjoy Lanna.

Footnote:

Touring and rental companies Chiang Mai

Asian Motorcycle Adventures

080-493-1012, info@asianbiketour.com; www.asianbiketour.com

Mr Mechanic (off-road tours)

4 Soi 5 Moon Muang Road, 053-214-708 http://mr-mechanic1994.com

Thai Bike Voyage (BMW’s)

97 Moo 5, San Kamphaeng, 053-115-802; www.thaibikevoyage.com

Tony’s Big Bikes

17 Ratchamanka Rd, 085-107-2893; www.chiangmai-motorcycle-rental.com

Touring and rental companies, Chiang Rai:

TS Motor

527/5-6 Banphaprakan Rd, 053713652; st_motorcycle@hotmail.com

Enduro Thailand (off-road tours)

535 Moo 16, Soi Den Haa 9 / 1, T. Robwiang; www.endurothailand.com

Rental Shop Pai:

JJ Offroad Rentals

100/1 Chaisongkram Rd, Pai, 089-560-0613

More bang for your buck ...

Bang! Bang! Bang! I didn't sleep a wink last night ...

As you might know, everything is celebrated longer and harder and louder in northern Thailand.

And this weekend is the Loy Krathong festival throughout the Kingdom. So of course that means at least one whole week's celebration in Chiang Mai. Fireworks, rockets, bungers, and anything that catches fire -- or could catch fire if sufficiently primed -- or makes a noise is wheeled into action. At any hour of night or day.

And of course the clear night skies are already filled with glowing lanterns trailing showering tails of sparking and fizzing fireworks into the stratosphere. Bloody magical!

I've just seen my neighbour's stockpile of fireworks in his garage: it's a collection of size and potency that would interest the Taliban, jing jing! (The photo adjacent is just a little warm-up one he tested in the garden recently, a fraction of the size of some of the ones he has under wraps.)


Luckily I'm heading down to Sukhothai to watch the peaceful release of about 5000 lanterns into the sky against the spectacularly lit backdrop of the ruins of the ancient capital.

But I'm sure Chiang Mai will be still be celebrating long and loud once I'm back ...

Loy Krathong Festival - November 2010

A date for your diary: November 21 is the big day this year, where the skies of northern Thailand come alive with khom loy lanterns ... you know the magical glowing paper rings that float to the heavens, taking all your bad luck with them and replacing it with good vibes and wishes.

Arguably the best place to watch it is in Sukhothai, where an epic light and sound show is followed by the release of thousands of lanterns happens in the 19-21st. Can you imagine the combination of the historical ruins of the ancient capital and the transcendental lanterns? (Note: accommodation is near to full already, book TODAY if you want to take part.)

Chiang Mai is also a great vantage point from which to see lanterns carress the night time sky for about that whole week, starting around 14 November when a large send-off from San Sai near Maejo University in the city's north is a spectacular tradition.

It's like watching tracer fire in slow motion, jing jing! Except the intentions are far more peaceful and beautiful. Er, unless you live next to Big Pete, who adds firecrackers to his lanterns and they explode with fury right above your house!

From Nan to to Sukhothai -- the exhilaration of acceleration

From Nan, there are options to head east across to Loei (supposed to be excellent riding and beautiful countryside) and Nong Khai (Friendship Bridge and Vientiane, Laos).

We opted to head south instead, taking in Uttaradit and Sukhothai.

As we suited up once more, it struck me that we had not seen a single farang (foreigner) since we left the Golden Triangle. It was a good feeling, as I felt we were now experiencing the real Thailand, beyond the tourist map. But ... I felt it was a crime that this amazing motorcycling countryside was not being experienced by more international riders. Oh well, their loss.

We blasted on down the 101 towards Phrae, which is a bit like the Plain of Jars, there is so much pottery being churned out and for sale along all the roads leading to and from it.

Then on to Uttaradit, along amazingly wide straight roads, like airport runways, lined with tall trees either side. The countryside whizzed by in a blur. My throttle got stuck in the 'open' position and I wrestled with it as I saw my speedo climbing: 120, 130, 140 kilometres per hour ... I wrestled it more ... 150, 160 ... alas, my struggles were in vain ... 170 ... it took me about 45 minutes to work out the problem -- I was turning the throttle the wrong way, and that's my story officer. Gee, it's scary to think that an experienced motorcyclist like me could make such a simple mistake!

Oh, the exhilaration, the freedom. Money can't buy that sort of feeling. It can buy you the motorbike, but not the feeling.

Uttaradit is marked by what I call The Big Durian -- a massive ode to the famously pungent fruit which smells something like old football socks dipped in diesel, but not quite as pleasant as that sounds.

And, would you believe it, I experienced the same rotten luck with my stuck throttle all afternoon down to the ancient capital of Sukhothai. The damn thing was stuck on 160 most of the way. I really should get it fixed ... er, one day!

After a long day in the saddle, we cruised in toward Sukhothai, passing Si Satchanalai National Park and Sawankhalok, both of which figured highly in this early artistic and cultural history of Siam, and are rich in art and artifacts.

The late afternoon soon glinted like light off a mirror ball from the gilt tips of temples. Long wide ornate promenades leading into the busy provincial capital.

We followed signs to the MG Guesthouse, along the river through old brick and wood places that looked as old as Thailand itself. But MG was a new motel-style place, set in modern landscaped garden with palms and trimmed hedges. Clean, airy, spacious with TV and an aircon for the princely sum of 400 baht per night for a single.

Phil and I mustered just enough energy to saunter in to town and enjoy a  two-hour oil massage (which cost around 300 baht if I remember correctly) and I fell asleep that night dreaming of my stuck throttle.

SukoThai, SukhoChinese, SukhoMoroccan, etc

I really didn't expect to find something so lavish in design touch in Sukhothai, the original ancient capital of Thailand. Dig out the history books, there have been a few over the years.

From the outside, this hotel presents traditionally Thai, with its steeply pitched shingled roof. (That in itself is something of a relief, because their sign at the turnoff  is sponsored by Pepsi and I wondered what I was getting myself in for!)

But then Tharaburi Resort just gets increasingly delightful from there. The airy lobby with its floor-to-ceiling doors, bowls of floating petals, and intricate mosaic murals, make you feel like you're visiting a rich Thai friend's grand home. Which, in a way, you are.

You see Khun Wiwat started this off as a very modest guest house, based on one original wooden building. He was a refugee from the corporate world, having cut his teeth in the Big Six accounting firms (is it still the Big Six or have they mergered and acquisitioned themselves into lesser firms now?). He chose a great spot, only a three-minute cycle ride from the Sukhothai Historical Park site I blogged about the other day. The bicycles by the way are free, and even if they weren't they get a lot of miles to the gallon anyhow.

Soon Wiwat was overflowing with business. And this is where the Tharaburi really hit its stride. He called in some designers who went to town which is handily only five minutes the other direction. No, seriously, they created what I call 'instant history' ... something that looks like it's been there forever, but is actually  new.

The corridors have ancient-looking black-and-white Chinese patterned tiles. Some of the rooms are in the style of old Thai teak houses. But then, they've added some rooms in a classic Chinese theme, with rounded archways shrouded in drapes, lending an air of mystery to the room. Another is done out in Morroccan style, with lush cushions and vibrant colours and dark woods. Still others are done in classic Thai ... think golds and purples clashing beautifully, with giant parasols sunk into the ceiling. Jing jing!

All these are surrounded by what can only be described as an infestation of frangipani, and placid lily-covered ponds.

'It's like waking up in another country,' mused my companion, looking through the intricate window panelling at the lotuses (or should that be lotii?) outside. Indeed it is exotic. But the atmosphere overall is unmistakably Thai. Especially the down-home friendly service, mainly handled by one really helpful and smiling guy who pops up magically in reception, in the restaurant, wherever and whenever you need him. Because, yes, it really is that intimate.

In fact if this place were any bigger or busier it would be ruined. Then maybe they could include it as part of the main Historical Park?

Sukhothai -- Nam Kang Restaurant is a legend in its own right

I don't often write about restaurants (because they don't often write about me).

But this one in Sukhothai near the Historical Park really is famous throughout central Thailand. The Nam Kang Restaurant, which is Thai meaning Nam Kang (a literal translation).

What makes it famous? Well, atmosphere really. A chance to experience the traditional central Thailand culture. Twinkling lights. A canal. And damn good food. The central Thai cuisine centres around river fish and grilled chicken (if you see 'river chicken' on the menu, decline it). Aloi aloi!

It's quite a big set-up, and yes, the odd tour bus pulls up here, but don't let that put you off. The thatched roofs of the village style rooms, and lights reflecting off the meandering canal, make it dreamy and other-worldy. Local groups sing and dance to their traditional riffs, sometimes discordant, but an authentic colourful backdrop nonetheless.

After a gorgeous Thai meal, you'll walk out of here paying somewhere between 150-200 baht per person. (That's right, about $5-7 Aussie dollars in your language.) So a tourist trap it aint. Jing jing!

Top Tips for Enjoying a Top Time at Sukhothai

Enjoyed the lovely drive this weekend from Bangkok up to Sukhothai. You can belt up the #1 Highway in about 3 hours, or you can take a more scenic route via Phitsanulok and stop for lunches and coffees/teas along the way. Keep your eyes peeled for some really snappy coffee shops attached to some of the bigger petrol stations -- none of this Nescafe 43 beans in a polystyrene cup truck-stop nonsense. And some of the rest rooms wouldn't be out of place in a Hyatt Hotel, jing jing!

This is a particularly good time of year to do this, as the Flame trees are out in full orange bloom, and the rice paddies in this flat, flat central Thailand section are positively luminously green.
So here's my list of 'best ofs' from Sukhothai.

Listen carefully, as I'm only going to say this once: The gates of Sukhothai Historical Park are open from 6am but the tour buses don‘t disgorge their milling masses till much later. So, go early in the morning, beat the crowds, enjoy the spiritual solitude, and be awed by the first light glinting off the Buddha figures and temple roofs. You’ll experience the real essence of the Sukhothai era this way. Jing jing!  Bike rent os only 30 baht for the day.

Now, elsewhere around the town, make sure you check out as many of the following as possible:

Ananda Museum Gallery:

The 33-room Ananda Museum Gallery Hotel blends traditional dark woods and furniture with modern minimalist aesthetics to create a pleasing fusion. Located in the city centre, it has the Sanghalok Museum adjacent where centuries-old ceramics and weapons can be browsed.

Tel: 055-622428. www.ananda-hotel.com

Dream Cafe:

Both suitably stylish and tropical, Dream Café offers cozy indoor and outdoor dining options from 10 to 10 pm daily. Put energy lost from sightseeing back with their signature fondue hotpot of noodles, meat and vegetables. A little more expensive than other eateries in town, but worth it. Take mosquito repellant.

86/1 Singhawat Rd. Tel: 05561-2081

Chopper Bar:

Sukhothai is light on for night life by Thai standards, but the most popular watering hole is the rustic Chopper Bar where you can enjoy live music on the front terrace or open-air garden behind.

96/1 Prawet Nakhon Road, Sukhothai. Tel: 055-611190

Lotus Village Spa:

Temple-hopping can be hard work on the legs, so chill out at Lotus Village Spa in the heart of the city, with lotus ponds, tropical gardens and teak buildings taking you back to the golden age. Enjoy their signature 90 minute aroma massage for 1200 baht.

170 Ratchathanee St, Sukhothai. Tel: 55 621 484 http://www.lotus-village.com/

Next blog will be on the Thanaburi Hotel, adjacent the Sukhothai Historical Park. A charming little place.

Meantime, enjoy the tranquility ... Shhhh!

Sukhothai -- Cradle of Siamese Civilisation

A trip to Sukhothai is much more than a visit to some old ruins. It is a journey to the very core of Siamese civilization ...

It was here from 1238 until 1438 that so many aspects of Thai culture were developed, such as the formalization of the Thai alphabet under Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng. It was a turbulent period of blood-letting and empire building with ‘Thailand’s’ footprint being much larger than it is today. Then, remarkably like Angkor Wat, the vulnerable city characterized by its lotus-bud style chedis was abandoned and lost to the jungle, with Ayutthaya favoured as the new capital site for the kingdom.


The area was gazetted for protection in 1961, and restoration of Sukhothai Historical Park’s five zones commenced in earnest. Detractors claim that much of the restoration has been too well done, diminishing the aged authenticity of the Buddha figures, chedis, stupas, salas, ramparts and moats they’re viewing.

(A tip: take a bicycle and venture further than the heavily restored central zone. Temples at the rear and on the fringes of other zones are largely untouched to date. Unmarked tracks reward the intrepid with original-condition ruins, giving you an Indiana Jones feeling.)


However, if you are here around Loy Krathong festival time, you will be absolutely enchanted by the site of thousands -- yes, thousands -- of lanterns floating skyward from amid the lit ruins. That is a transformational experience in anybody's life.

It makes you believe in Father Christmas, the Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy all over again. Jing jing!
Otherwise, make a day trip of the 55 km journey north out to the much less trampled Si Satchanalai Historic Park, also a UNESCO-listed World Heritage site, which flourished parallel to Sukhothai. Within the 90-odd hectare old city walls adjacent the Yom River, Wat Chang Lom, Wat Chedi Jet Thaew and Wat Nang Phaya are sure to delight with their intriguingly different designs. Chang Lom for instance owes its design to a Sri Lankan design aesthetic, with 39 standing elephant buttresses around its base.

Others tilt more toward the Khmer or even Ayutthaya styles.

Si Satchanalai also has the added dimension of ceramic kiln relics at Ban Ko Noi, around five kilometers north of the town. At its peak, possibly 1000 kilns produced celadon ceramics known as Sawankhalok, showing remarkable enterprise and exporting their signature ceramics as far as Japan, China and Indonesia.

This triumvirate of Thai civilisation is completed by Kamphaengphet Historical Park, listed by UNESCO, too, though smaller in scale. However, laterite left-overs are easily accessible around this small provincial town about an hour’s drive southwest of Sukhothai (the road into town even curves around some red brick rampart relics).

So get off the time-worn track. Who knows, you might even uncover some long-forgotten ruin and be immortalized in history yourself.