Something different in Koh Samui

 Lately, I have been overwhelmed with the number of people who tell me that they have been to Thailand several times and it is time to try something different. Something different I ask – like what? Where in Thailand have you been?

The answer is always the same – Phuket! Only Phuket I ask? Yes – Thailand

Memories of wild animals in Thailand

Reliving the distant memories of a childhood in Thailand, fast-forwarding two decades to the memories of revisiting the place I was born and then snapping forward another two decades into today's experiences, I am left wondering what happened to the wild animals of Thailand.

Monkey training on Koh Samui 

On my journeys into Thailand and rediscovering the memories of my youth, I often wondered of the wild animals that once roamed freely throughout dense jungles of the kingdom; tigers, black panthers and spotted leopards, deer, snakes, birds, monkeys and the myriad of insect life.  Elephants and buffaloes for hundreds of years have been enslaved to the greater human needs but the more exotic animals I suspect, based upon the length of teeth and related ferocity, have been hunted out of existence as farming and urbanisation took over once pristine jungles.

Certainly, there are still snakes of all sorts as there are birds. Of insect, reptilian, amphibian and fish life forms, one only needs to visit any of Thailand's thousands of fresh food markets and street vendors to know what has befallen the populations of wildlife...  As there are mouths to feed, there are uncountable recipes for any of the above and more unmentioned animals.  One thing for sure though, most Thais don't like snakes and give them a wide berth should any be encountered.  By the very nature of snakes and Thai peoples' disdain of them, it could be said that their future in the wild is assured.

Of monkeys, I am not so sure of their existence in the wild except to say they still remain in the small town of Lopburi, just north of Bangkok.  There, outside the railway station is a large statue of a monkey, attesting to that very fact that this is where monkeys live. Pulling up at the railway station, one can be greeted by the "oh so usual sight" of people leaning on or squatting along a concrete wall and wooden picket fence, while interspersed between them will be any number of monkeys...Person, monkey, person, person, monkey, person, monkey, monkey, person...

Other than that, I recalled that monkeys abound in Koh Samui and the island's large coconut industry.  To find out if that was still the case, I decided to venture to the Gulf of Siam and explore Koh Samui.

Arriving at the airport aboard a domestic Thai Airways flight, I was greeted by the slap of extreme humidity that instantly replaced the gentler embrace of the airconditioned aeroplane's interior during my brief flight from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport to the island.  Outside of the airport and on the way to my hotel, I totally forgot about monkeys and the once-thriving coconut industry as I became concerned about my own existence in the face of a barrage of motorcycles, racing shuttle buses, cars and trucks all vying for the same strip of concrete which lines the entire island.

Not a coconut could be seen being delivered...where there used to be an island industry of coconuts, many of the lands used for that have now been turned into resorts, urban complexes and shopping centres.  The industry has been sidelined in favour of the tourist dollar.  So too have the monkeys of Samui been sidelined.  Where before there used to be a laid back island lifestyle of gentlefolk and monkeys going about the toils of gathering coconuts for a living, Koh Samui's monkeys are so few now, relegated to performing shows of agricultural history.

Waking up early on the last morning of my stay at the island, I heard what sounded like a monkey calling out.  Further off in the distance, I heard another return the call.  Yawning, I thought I might have been imagining things as surely they were birds of some sort...   

Thailand yoga on Koh Samui - finding the 'one'

by Bianca Lucas

I’ve been flirting for years.

I start to get involved then I back off.

I reach a certain level in the relationship and I get scared. Too much work I tell myself. I’m still looking for the right ‘one’.
Well, I found it.

In the beautiful, laid back island of Koh Samui.

The ‘one’ I’m referring to is Ashtanga Yoga.



An energetic flowing sequence of postures that has a focus on synchronising the breath to movement, with the aim being to create a calm, focused mind whilst increasing strength, stamina and flexibility. Just the tonic I needed.

After a bad breakup that left me, well, rather broken, I decided the best course of action was to remove myself physically and mentally from the scene of the crime to a place that would allow me to rest, regroup, get some balance and ultimately some strength back (physically and mentally).

I found my place of respite at the wonderful ‘Yoga Thailand‘, situated on Laem Sor beach, a 45 minute drive south of Koh Samui airport. The yoga (and spa) retreat has an emphasis on eco-friendliness and is set on a picture perfect, coconut palm fringed beach.

The rooms were spacious, light and airy. White washed walls gave one the sense of calmness and relaxation with the fragrance from the frangipanis wafting in from outside my bedroom window.

The bathrooms were clean and modern with lots of natural lighting.

All-in-all I would describe the accommodation as ‘eco-chic’ and rather lovely.

My days consisted of rising early (6.30am), having a herbal tea then going for a contemplative walk along the beach before coming back to meditate in the ‘shala’ on the waterfront.

This was then followed by a 1&1/2 hour Ashtanga Mysore yoga class in the beautiful ‘yoga shala’ that overlooks the meditation garden and salt water swimming pool.

Taking influence from yogi’s from India and Thai Buddhist masters, the shala wasn’t air-conditioned so at times one found oneself very warm - and very sweaty. Moments when the sea breeze wafted in were little moments of heaven.

So was the food. Brunch went for 2 hours following the morning class (I would have 1st breakfast then come back for 2nd and sometimes 3rd breakfast!!) in the open air beach/pool-front restaurant.

Afternoons were spent reading in the beachside lounge, lazing on comfy cushions and alternating between the pool and beach to cool off, snorkelling and trips to nearby islands.

Late afternoons consisted of a gentle, restorative hour yoga class followed by conversation with newly made friends over a nutritious and delicious (chocolate chip cookies were beyond amazing) 3 hour dinner.

I had found the yoga goddess within and I left feeling calm, balanced, happier, a little wiser and definitely stronger. And committed.

It might not have been the ‘one’ I was looking for (or lost) but it is the one I don’t think I could ever live without now.

Lazing and laughs on Koh Samui

by Roger Hanson

A good laugh always accompanies a good holiday and the more laughs better the holiday seems.
It is a simple formula because laughter means being relaxed and enjoying the moment, and that’s what we found at Koh Samui. A place that met all the criteria we had set for a holiday as a couple with friends.

After working a year of hard 7-day rosters with swing shifts, we were tired and eager for a break. Sitting on a mid-winter’s day as the cold rain pelted down outside the Flight Centre’s office in North Hobart, in Australia’s most southern capital, we thought long and hard where to go for our holiday. We visualised a country rich in culture, fine food, cocktails and cold beer by the pool or beach and the mandatory daily massage or two massages if we could sneak the extra in.

Thailand fitted that bill, and we had flown Thai Airways before and enjoyed the experience, so flights booked, but where to stay, we had heard good reports Koh Samui was a good place to relax and to get a taste of Thailand. We took a punt on the Amari Palm Reef Resort, Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui , and it ticked all the right boxes.

Travelling with another couple, who originally came from El Salvador, but now living in Tasmania, we spent 3 nights in Bangkok at the sensational Sofitel Sukhumvit, a true 5-star hotel, with its attentive staff. We enjoyed the buzz of Bangkok, with fabulous assortment of entertainment, food and cultural sights. The longer our holiday went, with good company , more the laughs bubbled to the surface as relaxation set in.

Sofitel Sukhumvit Bangkok

Thai Airways flight to Koh Samui where not only were the bags unpacked but the stresses of everyday life melted away at the Amari Palm Reef amongst a gorgeous setting of beach, pools and the gentle pace of a seaside resort.

The Amari Palm Reef has wonderful mix of guests, from newly-wed couples to families. The pleasant vibe amongst guests and staff is testament to general manager Martin Kunzmann and his executive assistant manager Julian Paech’s approach.

The resort is set out as a traditional Thai village, with a pool the centrepiece surrounded by swaying palms of the main accommodation area. Another pool, near the beach, is close to the casual dining and bar. It is an ideal environment to relax, yet close enough to shops and night-time entertainment further down the beach.

Amari Resort Koh Samui

The food was exquisite, because of that I took time out to find out Torsak Pong-ampai is the executive chef in charge of 28 staff creating consistently good food.

It was our first time to Koh Samui, and I am sure there will be a next time.

Ultimate Guide to Koh Samui

InterContinental Koh Samui

OVERVIEW

Koh Samui has grown up. No longer the backpacker backwater of the turquoise Gulf of Thailand, she’s now a sophisticated destination for a more discerning traveller. The jet set has truly arrived, and Samui spoils for choice when it comes to upscale beds, beers and buffets.

There is still the opportunity, however, to party your nights away like it’s your gap year. Also still apparent is the laidback charm of the Thai people and culture. This world-renowned character, coupled with the celebrated Asian knack for hospitality, makes Koh Samui the island of choice for a good chunk of Thailand’s annual 30 million visitors.

It takes just over an hour by plane to exchange the Bangkok bustle for island life, or the more adventurous can take a 3-hour ferry from the mainland port of Surat Thani. Either way, once you arrive it’s all about the beach.

Samui is blessed with miles of coastline, and while it’s not the unspoilt secret sandy paradise of your dreams, such places are a day-trip away. What Samui has instead is a slick tourist infrastructure to ensure that you’re well fed and watered at whatever price point you desire - from Michelin-worthy feasts to street food surprises.

Whether you make the most of the island’s tourist facilities, use it as a base for a spot of island-hopping or simply laze on the beach all day, Koh Samui is an increasingly hip tropical destination.

Times are a Changin’ on ol’ Koh Samui

#thailand
 
We gathered some of our old and new Thailand salts together for a chat about Koh Samui and how they remember it. Roderick Eime spoke to John Borthwick, Rob Woodburn, Deb Dickson-Smith and his own daughter Shalia.

Modern luxury resort complex: Anantara Koh Samui (supplied)

Like so many places in Southeast Asia, the old timers roll their eyes mystically and relive the times before the great tourism revolution at the end of the 20th century.

Their grey-flecked beards and sun-parched skin speak of a life spent under the tropical sun when life was simple and the beer was cheap.

Nowadays, the idyllic islands that dot the coast around the Gulf of Thailand are laden with modern ‘charms’ like multi-star resorts, paved roads, retail havens and bars and clubs aplenty.

Koh Samui is the poster child for resort island development in the region. These days the postcard primed, white sand beaches are lined with some of the best resorts in all of Southeast Asia. With more than 18,000 rooms and occupancy rates close to 70 per cent being quoted, direct international flights have added tens of thousands of new visitors to the island annually.

Koh Samui village c.1980 (samuiandkoh.com)

Shopping malls and retail plazas, like the massive complex on 48,000 square metres of land in the tourism area of Chaweng are transforming Koh Samui from the semi-secret haven to a sprawling tourist metropolis.

According to a report in the Bangkok Post, a marked shift in demand is bringing more Asian visitors and families. The top three source markets are, according to the report, Germany, the UK and Thailand which contribute more than a quarter of total arrivals. But here come the Russians, with 15 per cent of total visitor arrivals now from the Russian Federation.

Deb Dickson Smith is a specialist family travel writer from Australia. She travels with as many as five kids in tow.

“It’s an obvious choice for families really with a great choice of family-friendly resorts, friendly locals who welcome children and plenty of safe swimming beaches. In addition to obvious activities like swimming and snorkeling, kids can take part in anything from football golf to elephant rides.

“If your kids are like mine and are budding junior zookeepers, it’s worth checking out some of the animal attractions. There are in fact plenty of animal attractions in Koh Samui, as diverse as the animals they exhibit and include a butterfly garden, a crocodile farm, snake farm and monkey shows.”

Shalia, 21, from Sydney came with uni friends for a bit of beach R-n-R and some partying. She had a mixed experience.

Ark Bar Beach Resort (supplied)

“We stayed at the Ark Bar Beach Resort and it was fine. Clean, comfortable, affordable and close to the action

“The locals are great, so patient, but some of our fellow travellers from around the world must have left their manners at home. They left a lot of trash on the beach. Bottles mainly and it really bothered me, almost as much as the captive animals.

“I loved the walks up to the waterfalls and swimming in the pools, but I can’t recommend the water slides. I think they’re dangerous, but the boys loved them and we all ended up bruised after a few slides.”

John Borthwick is another with a long memory and experience on Koh Samui going back decades. He has some advice for new visitors too.

“Arrange a hotel airport pick-up, and use the shuttle wherever possible because Samui’s taxis (“my-meter-not-work-today” … and every day) are pure banditry. Don’t start a taxi journey without agreeing on the price.

“Samui has one of the worst accident records in Thailand, in a country with accident stats ten times that of Australia or New Zealand. If you rent a motorbike, jot your will, wear that helmet and have an Australian motorbike — not just car — licence (or else your insurance won’t cover you).

“Rent a car then head off on the good around-island road. Look for (slightly) off-the-beaten track, west coast beaches like Lipa No, Laem Nan or Natien. On in the north, try Bang Bor and Mae Nam.

“The Secret Garden, tucked away high in a mountain gorge, is a tranquil grove of Ramayana characters, dancers and concrete angels that was sculpted by a Samui native, Nim Tongsung who began his task at age 77 and worked until his death at 91. A labour of love in a place of peace.

“Skip the so-called “mummified monk” and “Buddha footprint”.

“Wander the gauntlet of Chaweng’s cheapo clothing stalls and boutiques, plus its beer bars, restaurants and cocktail lounges. Or head to Soi Green Mango, a full-tilt bar zone that specialises in loud music, cold beer, dancing and occasional mayhem. Bophut is the quiet alternative, with small, more stylish bars.

John, Deb and Shalia span the commonest demographics for Aussies and Kiwis heading to Koh Samui and Thailand. While each are deeply fond of The Land of Smiles, sensible precautions should be taken – just like a trip anywhere in our rapidly evolving world.

"Our first tourists on Koh Samui had free accommodation," the president of the island’s tourism association told me some years ago, adding that, "Visitors had to sleep at the temple because we had no hotel." Those first visitors arrived 45 years ago. This formerly hotel-free zone now draws several million visitors a year.” – John Borthwick, Australia

Thirty years ago, Koh Samui was a semi-mythical island known only to a few intrepid adventurers prepared to make the big effort to get there. Seasoned traveller, Rob Woodburn, was one.

Rob Woodburn in rudimentary accommodation "back in the day" (Rob Woodburn)

Back in those days before everything became Instawhat and Snapthat it took some time to make your way from Bangkok to the island of Koh Samui.

By 1983 this island already had the reputation of a quasi-mythical destination. But like the protagonists in Alex Garland’s The Beach - published 13 years later - it took a certain type of traveller to summon the effort to reach Koh Samui.

It took a long and stifling bus or train ride from the capital south to Surat Thani where we then made our way to the waterfront to lobby for a place on the overnight ferry. Places were limited and the ferry didn’t always run, so it was usually full. Piracy was a real threat but we lived in the optimistic hope that backpackers being such a scurvy lot, no decent brigands worth their salt would waste time on us.

The ferry was a creaky wooden vessel that sat low in the water and powered by a noisy, oily engine that thudded away all night and belched noxious black smoke. It had an enclosed upper deck transformed into one gigantic futon on which all foreign passengers sprawled for the night. Getting to know you was easy.

In the early morning we arrived at Na Thon on the island’s west coast where small trucks painted in gaudy colours were parked nose to tail along the quay awaiting new arrivals. As soon as we set foot on dry land the touts’ chants erupted.

“Anyone Big Buddha? “

“Come Chaweng, very good!

“Lamai, Lamai, you love it sure!”

Few of us knew any real detail about these respective destinations. Amid the ruckus, we found ourselves piled into the back of the trucks which then sped in convoy along the rough coastal road.

Fortune saw me dropped off at Chaweng, a glorious stretch of beach with scant guest accommodation. Best Beach Resort had 10 huts facing each other, five-a-side, over a path leading down to the sand. Everyone shared the one toilet and shower. Crude it was, but clean and comfortable - provided you’d thought to bring your own mosquito repellent, toilet paper and torch batteries. There was very little available to buy on the island and power only for a few hours a day.

Meals were cooked in a rudimentary kitchen set up in the nearby jungle, basically a hot wok and some seats. Stir-fry was the order of the day, sometimes with noodles, occasionally with fresh fish but mostly fried rice.

But who cared? We had Chaweng Beach practically to ourselves. The only travellers I saw were those staying at the same place. Later I moved south a bit and scored a hut right on the point between Chaweng and Lamai with uninterrupted sea views. This was my private paradise for a while. I made one trip to Big Buddha but it seemed far too popular in comparison.

Koh Samui, for me, will always be that solitary hut beside the black rocks on the Point. I haven’t been back, so have no idea what’s happened since they built an airport almost slap bang on top of Chaweng and resorts began sprouting like sweet peas on steroids. And I have no desire whatsoever to know.

One of the best places to honeymoon? Kuoni says Thailand.

Banyan Tree Koh Samui - a perfect honeymoon hideaway

 The word honeymoon itself is enough to bring sighs and gushes to the lips of young maidens, and fleeting clouds of twinkling stars to their eyes. The stuff of fairy tales since they were little princesses ...

So no pressure then when it comes to choosing the best honeymoon destination.

Especially if it's only a once-in-a-lifetime experience (which we all sincerely hope it is when going into it.)

Let's narrow it down for you. The good folks at Kuoni have just released their 2013 Travel Trends report and Amazing Thailand ranks number 3 in terms of the most desirable and best places to go for a honeymoon this year.

A couple I know were both working in a resort in the Maldives when they got married. So, if you already live and work in the Maldives -- another shitty day in Paradise! -- where do you go for your honeymoon?

In their case, Bangkok. Jing Jing!

Andrew wanted to play golf with his mates, and Liz was happy to trawl the shopping emporiums of the City of Angels.

Personally I might look further afield to some of the smaller islands. Ko Samui comes immediately to mind. (For your info, the word koh in Thai means island, so need need to repeat Koh Samui island.) I have blogged about Samui a fair bit, so have a little search around my blog archive.

Beautiful sunsets and romantic beach walks

Then there's Yao Noi, a really unspoilt little island in the Krabi area (so you could combine a few spots, some lively, some quieter and more secluded in your trip). If you really want to indulge in the most wonderful spot, choose the Six Senses Yao Noi. 

Ko Lanta is another that comes to mind in the Krabi area, in the Andaman Sea, with endless stretches of white sandy beaches. As does Khao Lak, just north of Phuket.

All those places will give you idyllic beaches, sunshine, diving and snorkelling. 

Do I actually recommend Phuket? Frankly I am over it as I've been travelling there since 1988 (!) and I can see how it's really popular with the beach and beer crowd -- not really how you want to spend your honeymoon is it? (Or if so, good thing you are not married to me!) Although there is the Millionaire's Mile of Anantara, Indigo Pearl, JW Marriot, etc up the very top north west of the island.

But if you prefer mountains and quieter bucolic times, choose Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai which also have a lifetime's worth of cozy and secluded resorts, with languid vistas of rice fields and beautiful valleys.

Gardens at Doi Tung, Chiang Rai province.

So that's almost a top 10 destinations for honeymoon in Thailand. Hope it's been a useful starting point for you? Let me know.

Of course, if you'd like to go to the Maldives for honeymoon anyway, it's easy to access from Bangkok too. So you can have the best of both worlds, and, like Liz and Andrew, claim you spent your honeymoon in Bangkok.

Thailand travel rated 2nd most popular destination 2013

The folks at UK tour company Kuoni have just put out a report based on their 2013 Travel Trends (hey February is better late than never!) and forward bookings.

Good news is that long haul travel to Thailand comes in 2nd most popular for the Brits. So where is more popular this year for the dentally challenged sandal wearers? Only travel to the Maldives. And after Thailand comes Sri Lanka. I've been to both, and they are undeniably magical in very different ways. For me, Maldives is purely about honeymoon. A week of indoor bedroom sports, coming up for air occasionally to go scuba diving or to drink a champagne toast to the glorious sunsets. But frankly not much local indigenous culture (or even local people) to see or enjoy or experience on your distant atoll.

I will blog soon on how Thailand fared in the top 10 Wedding destinations and top 10 Honeymoon destinations section of the report.

In making the announcement on Thailand, Kuoni's report talks about Bangkok as a captivating city, the floating markets, and the small island hideaways,"overlaid with a friendly, open culture."

Personally I would have questioned the use of a word like "overlaid" in the context of Thailand! ;)

But this should not detract from the enjoyment of perennial favourites such as Phuket, Koh Samui, and the up-and-coming Koh Chang.

Oh, and I'll leave with a little language pronouncing lesson for all our British visitors to the Kingdom in 2013. Koh Chang is pronounced "got chung" (rhymes with hung). Otherwise your boat driver may not know where you want to go.

The difference between Phang Nga and Pha Ngan Thailand

When booking your travel to Thailand, double check your facts -- and your ticket -- if you're heading to Phang Nga or Pha Ngan.

They are NOT the same place. In fact, decidedly different ...

Phang Nga is a massive bay in the Andaman Sea on the south-west coast of Thailand, famous for its emerald waters and jutting upthrusting limestone karst islands. It was first brought to worldwide prominence by the James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun and hence one of the islands here (actually Koh Ping-Gan) is only known as James Bond Island. Another famous spot here is Koh Panyee (Sea Gypsy Island) named for its nomadic seafaring locals.

Boat tours or kayaking tours are the best way to see the bay and its 42 entrancing islands (mostly uninhabited) and it is most easily accessed from Phuket by ferry.

Or, if you were here 10,000 years ago when the sea levels were lower, you could've walked here, jing jing.

Phangan (or Koh Pha Ngan to be exact) on the other hand is in the Gulf of Thailand, on the south-east of Amazing Thailand. About 15 km from Koh Samui. Phangan was put on the map by a little farewell party which proved quite popular. So it was staged again and grew into a regular thing each month. You may have heard of the Full Moon Party?

This is held at Haad Rin Bay. The island has developed greatly because of this, but is rather quiet comparatively during the month, and there are plans to make it more family friendly.

Phangan was featured prominently in Alex Garland's book The Beach, on which the movie was based. Having said that, the movie was filmed in the Phang Nga area. Go figure! Fans of the German band Ace of Base might want to get out their iPods and check out the song Vision in Blue. It's about Phangan ...

A vision in blue 
Forever young 
A token so true 
My Koh Phangan [4x]
I see you dancing in front of my face 
Your body is moving to the trace of the chase 
I'm flashing for you 
A bright light in the night for you

Aah, they don't write lyrics like that anymore. (But there again, they are German.)

So now you know the difference between Phang Nga and Pha Ngan. Are you in the right place after all? Or would you rather be at the OTHER place instead???

Oops -- I got it wrong about the Thailand election.

These are words you will rarely -- if ever! -- hear from me:

I. Was. Wrong.

Wrong about what? The aftermath of the recently completed Thai elections. With all the build-up in the past couple of years, the red shirts, yellow shirts, polka-dotted purple shirts, blah-dee-blah-dee-blah, I thought there was no way that the election result would simply be announced and people would say "Oh, Ok" and get back to work.

But that is exactly what has happened in Amazing Thailand in the last few days. Thankfully. There WAS no aftermath.

I have covered the country from Krabi to Phuket to Bangkok to Koh Samui to Bangkok (again) and now Chiang Mai in the last week, and have seen not one hair out of place. Nothing amiss. Nothing simmering that I can gauge from my humble viewpoint. Even though a good percentage of people (like in any democracy) didn't get the result they wanted.

May I say for the record, as a foreigner, I am absolutely apathetic and not involved in the politics of this , or indeed any, country.

So, the point -- you knew I had one to make EVENTUALLY didn't you?!? -- is that if you're thinking of travelling to Thailand but were a little worried or thinking What if? or whatever ... take a leaf out of Nike's book and Just Do It.

Confirm your flight and get on over here to Amazing Thailand now ... jing jing.

Friday Funny: A good Happy Hour deal from Koh Samui?

It looks like a good deal, but is it really? Read closely.

Photo taken at Samui Subzero 'Drink n Dive' party at Moby Dick's Bar, Chaweng, Koh Samui, Thailand.

If you enjoy reading Thailand Jing Jing then ...

Dear readers

Thanks to your support, we have now had over 20,000 pages of my Amazing Thailand travel blog stories downloaded ...

So, I thought you might also like to know I have another blog called THAILAND FACES AND PLACES.

In it, I set out to get locals (and long-term farangs living in Thailand) to invite you into their life story, and then take you to their top 5 places.

We go way waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay beyond touristic Bangkok, Phuket, Pattaya, Koh Samui, and Chiang Mai. Instead you'll find yourself in known-only-to-locals back streets, coffee shops, stores, noodle houses, Thai restaurants, and so on in places like Pai, Nan, Chonburi, Koh Turatao, etc.

Check it out, and tell your friends about it too. It's the best travel blog since Thailand Jing Jing. Jing jing!

Hangover 2: Mission Impossible - Travel in Thailand

Oh, and another thing about that movie ...

I notice the lads borrow someone's speedboat and go belting down the much-fabled Chao Phraya River in Bangkok and in about one minute of screen time are suddenly surrounded by the beautiful emerald waters of Krabi with its signature limestone upthrusts.

Attention Hollywood: that is NOT possible!

You see, the Chao Phraya feeds out below BKK into the Gulf of Thailand. A quick glance at a map tells me that is on the opposite side of Thailand's land mass from Phuket, Krabi, etc.

They would then have to go down the length of Thailand, past Hua Hin on the right, Pattaya on the left, past Koh Samui, reach Malaysia's east coast, keep going, chuck a right at the Singapore straits, cut through to Malacca and up the western side of the Malaysian peninsula.

Eventually they would go past Langkawi in north-western Malaysia before reaching again the waters of Thailand around Phuket after around 3,000km of sea travel.

By my SWAG method of estimation (Scientific Wild-Assed Guess) that would take more like 4 or 5 days at quickest, and several petrol stops, meaning the lads would have missed the wedding, jing jing.


Sorry to be so hard on an American B-movie (which I actually enjoyed a lot), but I haven't forgiven Hollywood for it's far-fetched fictional treatment of The Bridge on the River Kwai yet.

There are much quicker ways of getting to beautiful Krabi, of course. You can always fly, or take a car or bus.

Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2011 - big sale starting soon

Attention Shopaholics, crazy sale fans and bargain hunters!

 There's just over one month to go, folks, before the kick-off of the two month long Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2011 on June 15.

Fifteen thousand, yes, 15000 shops, department stores, duty-free outlets, airlines, hotels, spas and even golf courses have signed up for what will be the 14th staging of this fun and value-filled event.

So, is this all about coming home with arms-full of branded goods and designer stuff or can shoppers who've enjoyed this sale before expect anything different?

Yes, for the first time, locally made products will be the focus, underlining two of Thailand's current economic initiatives. One is the Creative Thailand economic drive, and the other is the One Tambon One Product program. OTOP as it is known encourages each village (tambon) to specialise in the design and production of one item, which is how you end up with 1,000,000 umbrella makers in Borsang, for instance. (What, you just thought it was a coincidence?)

Other villages produce silks, handicrafts, apparel, and home-use goods, all of which will be specially featured.

OTOP is a Royal Thai Government project which supports the sales, marketing and distribution of the villages' products.

Around Bangkok you can head to the favourite haunts of JJ Mall, Chatuchak Market (the famous 'weekend market'), the gigantic Pratunam Platinum and Outlet Mall among others to find these products and tons -- truckloads and tuk tuk loads! -- more.

And it's not just in BKK of course ... it is the Amazing THAILAND Sale after all. So if you find yourself in Pattaya, Phuket, Chiang Mai, Koh Samui, Had Yai or Hua Hin between June 15 and August 15, make sure you rev up your shopping cart and head to the designated shopping streets.

That's 7 cities for 2 months. Now that's what I call a BIG sale, jing jing.

#Samui one of THE places to visit in 2011 - New York Times

Samui inspired 'The Beach'

The New York Times has come out with its annual list of 'must visit' places. Often these are a top 5, a top 10 or even  a top 20. Why theirs is 41 is anyone's guess (maybe it was going to be 40 but the editor wanted to include his cousin's new resort at the last minute, who knows?)

Thailand's Koh Samui comes in at Number 3.

The NYT calls it "a toned-down version of Phuket, heavy on wellness and food." That's like saying San Francisco is a toned-down version of New York, heavy on gays and bridges, jing jing.

 It the bangs on about Samui as a "tropical gem" which is "the stylish luxury alternative to crowded Phuket" citing the opening of W Retreat last month, Beach Republic, the Banyan Tree (which I blogged about in 2010) and the Absolute Sanctuary's yoga and detox focus (who can forget my anal invasions there that I blogged about early last year ... I certainly can't!).

On the gastronomic -- as opposed to gastric -- side, eateries such as H Bistro at the new Hansar (blogged late last year) and Orgasmic get a run. Not mentioned because it's only just opened is Namcha Samui tea shop and cafe (www.namchasamui.com) ... a really stylish and charming addition to Fisherman's Village.

So if you haven't been ... go.  And if you've been before ... go again.

Then let me know: is Samui a toned down version of Phuket???

Still on the hippy trail in Samui

As we drive up through the backblocks of Lamai into the Varinda Resort I do a double-take. It seems like Alice in Wonderland has dropped an acid trip. Or Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali have just been here on a huge beach-side bender.

Mermaids and goats poke from the undergrowth. Bicycles hang from trees. Multi-hued rocking horses eye me from the pathway, jing jing.

Everything --and I do really mean everything -- is in bright, bold, primary colours. In your face.

In the lobby I do another double-take. Literally. Owner Yindee (Noi) and her daughter Varinda (Oil) could almost pass for twins although there is 20 years between them. Oh, and they're not mother-daughter; Noi is the aunt, being Oil's mum Chanida's sister. Goddit?

In their tie-dyed tees, sarongs, and wildly coloured bandannas, you immediately realise this is not the Hyatt Regency. "You don't come to a hotel in Samui, you are coming to see Noi your friend," she beams. "It is very humble but this is our house and your home too."

Noi sees herself as a hippie and dresses like this everyday ... even when on corporate roadshows. A far cry one suspects from when she worked with UNESCO for 14 years. "Samui talks about 4 star, 5 star, but we are here for the backpackers. Twenty years ago, this was the place for Aussie hippies to party."

And a nice spot it is too, on a promontory affording long views over Lamai Bay. "We are not on the beach but we have access through the family's property next door."

Family is a recurring theme with the artistic Noi. She's a painter, and so's Oil, hence the colourful splashes on every surface in, on and around the main buildings and the villas." The latter studied in the UK, and Chanida''s son is about to study hotel management in Switzerland. "But I told him you will not change anything here, we like it like this."

There is lots to love about the low-key laid-back environment.  All the balcony railings and all the furniture in the restaurant, are all hand made from wood from the property's orchard. It is rustic and enchanting compared to many of its newer modern generic neighbours. And when you're in the poolside sala overlooking the bay, nirvana seems somewhere just over the horizon.

"Samui is great because there's no low season," she says with those eyes sparkling again, laughing. "Great isn't it? Amazing!" Just then the rain slices in over the bay, sending diners ducking for cover.

"You can go to Bali and the beaches are great, too, but in Thailand ... it's the people," she says, touching her heart. "Next time come, and we'll go crazy, have a BBQ ..."

They don't teach you that at hotel management school in Switzerland. But they should.

Lounging round in Samui ...

If the greeting at the Business Class/ VIP lounge at Samui's cute little airport is not as warm as you might rightly expect, there's a good reason.

You see, the poor attendant there spends roughly three quarters of her time throwing freeloaders out of the lounge. No, not travel writers, I mean real free-loaders: punters hoping to scam a free meal or free internet or nice comfy sofa away from the madding crowds.

It's not that it's not clearly signposted as the VIP lounge. Yet backpackers who clearly have not showered or shaved in months nor spent more than 25 baht a night on accommodation walk up to the sliding doors with a look of entitlement in their eyes and a feeling of nourishment already in their bellies.

An array of bain-maries holds curry puffs and sticky rice among other delicacies.

'Mmmm, this looks great,' says an American next to me, piling his plate till it nearly interfered with the chandelier. Just then, the harried attendant returns to the lounge and asks him for his boarding pass. Economy class! See ya ...

Another unwashed couple walk up to the doors. with a quizzical look on their faces. Clearly they know they don't warrant entry Asia's Boutique Airline's lounge, but they try anyway. "Boarding pass please." See ya ...

And so it went. Time after time. The lounge attendant rolls her eyes. See ya ...

A ratio of 4 wannabes for every genuine Business Class passenger, jing jing!

With every eviction my sense of smugness reached cruising altitude. I tucked  into yet another bowl of special-order shrimp wonton soup. And another. This is great soup. Order a bowl. Order two bowls. It's worth the price of flying Business Class on Bangkok Airways alone.

But one thing that is available to all passengers at Samui airport, including the great unwashed, is the toilet block with its built-into-the-wall fish tank. Skittering tropical fish and the odd big janitor fish. A bit disconcerting to have that big sucker -- pun fully intended -- staring down at you at close quarters as you're trying to empty your bladder. 


Footnote: Stu Lloyd travelled to Samui with the assistance of Bangkok Airways.
(Photo above is of lounge at Bangkok airport, not Samui.)

Koh Samui -- A new player on the beach at Bo Phut.

It's a delightful evening on the beachfront at Bo Phut, Samui, with just the faintest tinge of wind rustling the palm trees in front of Bistro H. Silvery reflections of the full moon complete the postcard-perfect scene of classy beach-side dining. 'The moon is a bit late tonight, I'll speak to engineering about that,' jokes the good natured Indonesian GM, Indra.

It's just one day past the Full Moon Party which has been celebrated across the water on Koh Panghan, clearly visible from this vantage point at the front of the new Hansar Resort and Spa. A khum loy lantern is lit on the beach and floats whimsically skyward. The wheeeeeeeEEEEE-bang of a firework rocket somewhere further down the beach towards the hip and happening Fisherman's Village.

We are enjoying a meal which I've been looking forward to since Indra mentioned their chef Stefan had done a stint as the personal chef for the Jordanian royal family, or Michael Jordan, or someone very lofty in any case, jing jing.

And so it begins to appear. Abalone from Hokkaido. And wagyu sirloin that tastes just as you'd expect a cow that's raised on a steady regimen of beer and massages to taste. (Hmm, I wonder if my meat tastes like that?). Some very fine wine, Chilean if I'm correct, accompanies it. I'm sure the King of Jordan wishes Stefan was back there now.

Over dinner, Indra tells me about this all-new hotel-resort brand. 'Hansar is a play on the Sanskrit word meaning fun and playful. We're trying to hire happy people.'  The hotel is relying on all Thai input, including the architects to carve a unique look and feel for itself. If you imagine the Alila in Cha-Am (see earlier blog), it feels a lot like that, because the property was originally ear-marked to be an Alila. But it has been tweaked with some less austere, more quirky, touches -- such as the off-kilter woodwork resembling wonky bookshelves -- in the reception area.

The rooms are delightfully appointed with huge balconies and day beds, and huge rain showers (no the showers aren't on the balcony, they're behind an arty screen in the bathroom, but I didn't know how else to punctuate that sentence.)

The grounds are dominated by water ponds and an infinity pool with pool bar overlooking the beach.

The unassuming young Thai owner drifts past in shorts and t-shirt, very understated, and certainly not one whom you'd pick as the scion of one of Thailand's richest companies, ThaiBev. (Ever drunk a Chang beer? Well, you just put a dollar in his pocket.)

The top suites here, on the leading edge facing the sea, go for around 15000 baht ++ per night, and the rooms start at around 5500++ baht. 'We're fully booked over Chinese New Year already,' says a delighted Indra.

So if you're looking to an alternative to the incessant activity of Chaweng, think about the beach at Bo Phut. The Hansar is feeling playful. Are you?

Steamy Windows: water sports for adults

All guests at the new Banyan Tree Samui are entitled to a one-hour Rainforest Experience session in the spa, according to the in-room materials.

Yeah, whatever, I'm more interested in kayaking, snorkelling or just lazing around the plunge pool in the villa. Or even just staying in bed in our villa, it's so damn comfortable.

But at the urging of my companion, we hop on the golf buggy to the spa. The buggy ride in itself is an adventure, as the gradients on this 89-rai block of seaside land verge on the vertical at times. I'm sure this guy was a stunt driver in Police Academy! In fact, this remarkably steep hotel site was chosen for the propitious 'Turtle Rock' which the owner believes will bestow long life on all guests. It is a feat of engineering in itself that the resort was built within just 2 1/2 years, as all the buildings are propped up on pillars to maximise their outlook over the South China Sea.

Wooooooo! Weeheeee! We are like kids on a roller-coaster at a summer carnival. Screech! The buggy deposits us at the Spa.

The receptionist gives us an overview of the Rainforest Experience, a signature innovation first introduced to the chain's property in Sanya in 2008, and subsequently rolled out to a few new properties including Samui.

'Ten unique hydrothermal therapy experiences,' the receptionist tells us. Indoor water sports for adults is my translation.

First off, you walk down a pebbled corridor, lined with bamboo. Sensors are activated and you are showered with alternately hot and cold jets, like a monsoonal downpour. Then you enter the main chamber where Enya-esque music soothes your inner beast. 

Here, a series of herbal saunas, steam rooms, showers, drench buckets, and hydro-massagers await you. We were given suggestions on how long to linger in each, but it's up to you to tailor your experience how you want. I love the herbal steam, and revisit that a couple of times. My companion spends far too long (I think) in a shower that directs jets of water at strategic parts of her body that are not usually massaged in public, jing jing. 

To my disappointment, I find the jets of water aimed too low to do me any similar good!

Then out of the sauna and we pour crushed ice cubes over each other, and slip the odd one down each others' costumes.

Next it's into the warm pool, where we fire up a range of massagers that bubble and squirt and pour and gush water at various angles. I love the sensation on my neck especially. We move along the pool and lie on submerged recliners, as our bodies are tickled by gentle streams of water. Finally we reach the last station, which are raised day beds, heated to more than body temperature. The smiling assistant brings us a drink as we lie there.

Then I notice a funny thing. Both of our chests are heaving. As though we've been, um, how shall I say this ... exerting ourselves. Our hearts are both thumping. So all this hot-cold, in-out, round-a-bout treatment has really got our blood pumping.

We feel wonderfully alive after our trip to the Rainforest ...and we still have the buggy-ride back to look forward to!


Stu travelled to Koh Samui with assistance from Bangkok Airways www.bangkokair.com

Koh Samui -- Turning the blue waters, er, green.

Sands Restaurant, in a sheltered cove near Lamai that is home to the new Banyan Tree on Koh Samui, is a very pleasant spot, with all the usual ingredients of paradise: calm blue water, coconut trees (in the millions as this was till recently a coconut plantation) and four colourful wooden fishing boats riding at anchor just off the golden beach.

Cliches abound, so where am I possibly going to dredge up an interesting travel story here?

Then the hotel's Khun Marsh introduces me to Halik (pictured), an Indonesian from Sulawesi. Has he been shipwrecked and washed up on shore here? No, the marine biologist is Banyan Tree's CSR Manager and resident marine researcher, here to help the new property establish their well-known CSR program in which guests donate US$2 per night, which is matched by the hotel. 'We would like to do conservation by ourselves, and hope to establish a lab here,' the affable chap says.

His priorities are to release giant clams and turtles into the waters here.

Giant clams are considered a delicacy and thus are an endangered species in Asia. 'They filter water, eat plankton and make the water clear,' says Halik. Clearly there are already some in the water here, then, as the water sparkles beautifully.

Five turtles were released last month already. Their homing instincts have always intrigued me in that they can always return to the same beach where they were released, even if they've swum across thousands of kilometres of ocean to another continent. 'They record all the magnetic field and sand texture and water temperature ... that's how they know where they are.' Oh, I see. No I don't -- that's bloody incredible, jing jing!

Once the hatchlings reach 55-60 days, they are ready to launch, and guests at this Banyan Tree can join Halik in releasing them.

'My job is my passion,' beams Halik. And why not. He's got a great little office overlooking this golden cove and is able to put into practice all the things he wished he could do when he was working for an NGO previously.

'Since primary school I used to watch movies about coral reef -- my brother was a scuba diver.' Now here he is on Samui where 300 coral species thrive. 'The Coral Triangle is the centre of worldwide marine diversity, and Thailand is just outside it,' he says.

Guests are able to borrow flippers, mask and snorkel for free, and wade into the waters here. 'This is quite fantastic,' enthuses Halik. 'Barracuda, even a 1-metre long grouper ... I don't want to tell my colleagues otherwise my grouper will go missing,' he laughs. There's also a school of rabbit fish -- delicious!'

Speaking of delicious, all this talk is making me hungry. Let's order ...

'Would you like to try the giant clams?' asks Khun Marsh. He and Halik dissolve into good-hearted laughter.



Stu travelled to Koh Samui with assistance from Bangkok Airways www.bangkokair.com